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Stories

Clarence River  Trip January 2002 part two

 

Day Three  dawned a bit drizzly but soon cleared.  We stopped for a protracted morning tea break just past the windsock, which marks the northern boundary of the Muzzle Stream homestead.  Looking on the map this can be found where the Bluff River enters the Clarence.  Muzzle stream actually joins the Clarence further.
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The rafters catch up and pass us on their way to Jaw Breaker  Happy Rafters from Rangita
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In the afternoon of day three  we walked to the Fidget Stream Hut.  The hut is in very good condition and recently painted; however access was through a bit of a bog.  Jan was impressed to see that Cathy Lynch had used the hut during a mountain bike trip into the area. 
From Fidget Hut the scenery seemed a little different and we noticed more bird and fish life. 
As the valley opened up we suffered from strong sustained head winds.  Because of the winds we decided to stop and camp a little earlier than planned.  Very strong winds can make progress almost impossible, as flying water and gravel can sting your face and eyes, making it difficult even to see. 
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Camp was a ten-minute walk from the river on a grassy sunny sheltered river terrace near the Darth Stream just past a large farm shed. 

Day three tree
Dave day three
Slimy walk to day three camp
Day three camp view
Day 4. Mixed weather to start with but cleared to be very sunny which  reflected in the river being a perfect azure blue.  This is my favorite section of the river.  It contains of a narrow twisting gorge with lots of drops, pools and bluffs. Also a rich variety of vegetation which changes to reflect the drop in altitude of the river bed.  We started seeing Toetoe, Cabage trees, Marlborough Rock  Daisy and Beech.  Rock hollow day four
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Dave could not remember this section of the river valley from last time as we had been flushed through.  My memory of that  trip was also of being focused on the water and paddling. There was no where to stop and climb out anyway.  
This time, as we exited from the gorge we saw a broken hovercraft sitting abandoned  in the riverbed.  The only man made eye sore and hazard to other river travelers during the five days.  
Dave day four
Our final camp was in a tall stand of ancient Miro and Matai and Beech.  Here we saw a lot more native forest birds, and I went to sleep listening to the special sound of Kiwi.  Jan took this opportunity to experiment with a new camping concept, which made her feel less closed off from the natural surroundings.  Essentially Jan had set up a fly and tarp and in between hung a large net to protect her from biting insects, but giving her 180° view of the forest. Maggie writing
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Day 5  Now we had to do our duty and finish it all off.  Even knowing we had to be at the put out by 2pm to meet people it was still hard to leave a glorious campsite.  Reluctantly we started on the river by 10.30.  However Dave set a good pace as he was eager to meet up with his wife and children, and we followed hooting down those last straight wave trains.  The scenery now had become a mixture of farmland, tree plantations and coastal natives 
We met up with just one other raft on our last day.  This raft comprised of four overseas kayakers who had put in on the same day as everyone else, but very late in the evening, as they had first to do their 8 hour plus shuttle. Jan had her river reading skills honed and was skillfully putting her kayak where she wanted it.  It was with mixed feelings we arrived at the bridge in good time to get our gear up to the car park. 

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Due to the long distances involved in getting on and off the Clarence, having a shuttle laid on for us was an enormous benefit.  Thanks Clive, Vivienne and Rod for taking us to Hamner Springs, helping us pack and then also doing the shuttle.    Day five
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Prompted by the memory of the discarded hovercraft I should like to end this report discussing possible conservation needs of the Clarence River and Valleys.  What motivated each of us to spend time on the Clarence will be very different.  Indeed from wanting an easy kayak/camping holiday, to a refreshing break from work or a desire to take time to enjoy a new river.  I appreciate the river because it remains one of the few New Zealand rivers in its natural state where one can journey from alpine tussock to the sea.  I find the landscape or riverscape inspirational, as you round a bend or as rain clears, snow topped mountains gradually reveal themselves.  Deep set within the Kaikouras one can sense a loneliness and remoteness that can cast a spell on your mind. I have read that for mountaineers their first impressions of climbs are among memories retained most vividly.  I think this must be so for kayakers as well, and perhaps this stems from the inner anticipatory tension felt when approaching an unknown river.  My first Clarence trip was as a mother paddling with a young son - we shared a great sense of achievement.  We thought the river unspoiled, unique and talked of a longer trip with time to explore the beautiful valleys.  I believe the Hovercraft belonged to a local, and I am sure it was never the intention to deliberately leave it there. 

Mountaineers would call it a public scandal if a 4WD were left to rust and break up on the side of a slope in the Southern Alps.  I do not understand why, but unfortunately New Zealand rivers are not afforded the same respect that we give to mountains.  As trashed machinery degrades the river experience, and may present a new safety risk.  The sight of a broken rusting hovercraft does impinge on my better memories associated with this trip.  It seems to me that we damage ourselves almost as much as the river by our actions.  As ones appreciation of surroundings and your spiritual state are closely connected.  The damage we do to the Clarence environment is to damage ourselves by a lack of sensitivity to beautiful surroundings.  Like many others I should like the river protected by a national water conservation order so that it remains a special place for our wildlife and for other people to enjoy.  In the meantime, while the Clarence is still allowed to flow in its natural state I shall just enjoy sharing it with other kindred spirits. 

  Maggie Oakley  

Back to part one

Links

Clarence River Rafting is at raftingben@xtra.co.nz

NIWA http://www.niwa.cri.nz/

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Last changed: 09/10/2000, 02:43:47