| Day
Three dawned a bit
drizzly but soon cleared.
We stopped for a protracted morning tea break just past
the windsock, which marks the northern boundary of the Muzzle
Stream homestead. Looking
on the map this can be found where the Bluff River enters the
Clarence. Muzzle
stream actually joins the Clarence further. |
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| The
rafters catch up and pass us on their way to Jaw Breaker
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.
In the afternoon
of day three we walked to the Fidget Stream Hut.
The hut is in very good condition and recently painted;
however access was through a bit of a bog.
Jan was impressed to see that Cathy Lynch had used the
hut during a mountain bike trip into the area. |
From Fidget Hut the scenery
seemed a little different
and we noticed more bird and fish life.
As
the valley opened up we suffered from strong sustained head
winds. Because of
the winds we decided to stop and camp a little earlier than
planned. Very
strong winds can make progress almost impossible, as flying
water and gravel can sting your face and eyes, making it
difficult even to see.
.
.
.
.
.v
Camp
was a ten-minute walk from the river on a grassy sunny
sheltered river terrace near the Darth Stream just past a
large farm shed.
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| Day
4. Mixed weather to start with but cleared to be
very sunny which reflected in the river being a perfect azure
blue. This is my
favorite section of the river.
It contains of a narrow twisting gorge with lots of drops,
pools and bluffs. Also a rich variety of vegetation which
changes to reflect the drop in altitude of the river bed.
We started seeing Toetoe, Cabage trees, Marlborough
Rock Daisy and Beech. |

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Dave
could not remember this section of the river valley from last
time as we had been flushed through.
My memory of that trip was also of being
focused on the water and paddling. There was no where to stop
and climb out anyway.
This time, as
we exited from the gorge we saw a broken hovercraft sitting
abandoned in the riverbed.
The only man made eye sore and hazard to other river
travelers during the five days. |
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| Our final camp was in a tall stand of ancient Miro and
Matai and Beech. Here
we saw a lot more native forest birds, and I went to sleep
listening to the special sound of Kiwi.
Jan took this opportunity to experiment with a new
camping concept, which made her feel less closed off from the
natural surroundings. Essentially
Jan had set up a fly and tarp and in between hung a large net
to protect her from biting insects, but giving her 180°
view of the forest.
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Day
5 Now we
had to do our duty and finish it all off.
Even knowing we had to be at the put out by 2pm to meet
people it was still hard to leave a glorious campsite.
Reluctantly we started on the river by 10.30.
However Dave set a good pace as he was eager to meet up
with his wife and children, and we followed hooting down those
last straight wave trains.
The scenery now had become a mixture of farmland, tree
plantations and coastal natives
We met up with just one other raft
on our last day. This
raft comprised of four overseas kayakers who had put in on the
same day as everyone else, but very late in the evening, as
they had first to do their 8 hour plus shuttle.
Jan had her river reading skills honed and was
skillfully putting her kayak where she wanted it.
It was with mixed feelings we arrived at the bridge
in good time to get our gear up to the car park.
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| Due
to the long distances involved in getting on and off the
Clarence, having a shuttle laid on for us was an enormous
benefit. Thanks Clive, Vivienne and Rod
for taking us to Hamner Springs, helping us pack and then also
doing the shuttle. |
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Prompted
by the memory of the discarded hovercraft I should like to end
this report discussing possible conservation needs of the
Clarence River and Valleys.
What motivated each of us to spend time on the Clarence
will be very different. Indeed
from wanting an easy kayak/camping holiday, to a refreshing
break from work or a desire to take time to enjoy a new river.
I appreciate the river because it remains one of the
few New Zealand rivers in its natural state where one can
journey from alpine tussock to the sea. I find the landscape or riverscape inspirational, as you
round a bend or as rain clears, snow topped mountains
gradually reveal themselves.
Deep set within the Kaikouras one can sense a
loneliness and remoteness that can cast a spell on your mind.
I have read that for mountaineers their first impressions of
climbs are among memories retained most vividly.
I think this must be so for kayakers as well, and
perhaps this stems from the inner anticipatory tension felt
when approaching an unknown river. My first Clarence trip was as a mother paddling with a young
son - we shared a great sense of achievement.
We thought the river unspoiled, unique and talked of a
longer trip with time to explore the beautiful valleys.
I believe the Hovercraft belonged to a local, and I am
sure it was never the intention to deliberately leave it
there.
Mountaineers
would call it a public scandal if a 4WD were left to rust and
break up on the side of a slope in the Southern Alps.
I do not understand why, but unfortunately New Zealand
rivers are not afforded the same respect that we give to
mountains. As
trashed machinery degrades the river experience, and may
present a new safety risk.
The sight of a broken rusting hovercraft does impinge
on my better memories associated with this trip.
It seems to me that we damage ourselves almost as much
as the river by our actions.
As ones appreciation of surroundings and your spiritual
state are closely connected.
The damage we do to the Clarence environment is to
damage ourselves by a lack of sensitivity to beautiful
surroundings. Like
many others I should like the river protected by a national
water conservation order so that it remains a special place
for our wildlife and for other people to enjoy.
In the meantime, while the Clarence is still allowed to
flow in its natural state I shall just enjoy sharing it with
other kindred spirits.
Maggie Oakley
Back
to part one
Links
Clarence
River Rafting is at raftingben@xtra.co.nz
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