Otago Canoe and Kayak Club

Stories
Te Waewae Bay Labour Weekend 2000

It was the first time I had looked at the surf in Te Waewae Bay, well really looked at the size and power of it.  This was because I was about to take my sea kayak a glass Nordcapp, out through it with the hope that I could make a safe return, landing some 6 or 7 hours later.  So started the long weekend for the three of us, myself Jan Nicoll and Sue McAllister.  For some time we had wanted to explore Sue's old childhood haunts and generally look at the setting for the Tuatapere Wild Challenge.  So here we were as guests of Sue's Aunt Joan, enjoying more food than we could comfortable eat and generally being spoilt with lots of warm southern hospitality.  We had planned to spend one day at sea, one on Lake Hauroko and one on a local walk.

The prevailing weather pattern and marine forecast showed that of the three available days Saturday was the safest day for the sea trip.  Our diverse individual paddling styles were very evident as we made our launch out through the surf.  Jan, in her plastic Squall, plowed her way through the break.  Sue followed, riding up the waves and shooting out the back, twice getting her whole boat airborne, then after being fully suspended dropping down at least a meter.  I expected her boat to break into many pieces, well, at least to break in half.  Les Coxhead would have been very proud to see his old Nordcapp still so sea worthy.  I took the more calculated or nervous approach and alternately sprinted then back paddled to make a comfortable and dry exit.  As we paddled away we took note of landscape features that would assist us in our return.  I also calculated the return compass bearing in case visibility became diminished.  Our reward was two waiting Hector Dolphins and a sea almost mirror-calm.  Morning tea consisted of savory zucchini muffins supplied by Sue's mum, washed down with cold fruit juice, and all consumed at sea sitting in our kayaks

After a two-hour paddle there was an abrupt change in the sea colour, the blue of the deep-water bay turned to aqua-green over a steeply shelving sandy beach.  And even more Hectors.  We glided onto the sand at hot and sunny Port Craig, landing by relics of the timber mill and old wharf.  Port Craig was once the site of one of the biggest timber mills in New Zealand.  We changed into walking clothes and set off to explore the old 1920s School-House.  This house is now available for trampers and marked the beginning of our walk along part of the South Coast Track.  The track passes through the Waitutu Forest, which contains unmodified lowland natives and giants such as Rimu.  Our route was along the old tramway built to take timber down to the port for export.  The trampers we met were unimpressed to see us looking so clean and fresh as they had tramped with packs for a good 6 hours.  While we were only 20 kms or a 2-hour paddle away from our cars.  

Lunch at  Port Craig

We had an easy return trip on an incoming tide, although we were a bit edgy about the forthcoming hazards of the surf.  We had picked a section of beach with the least rocks, as we knew the tide would be well in on our return.  This was going to make for an easy carry up to the cars.  Our entry back in through the surf was very individual.  My plan was to attach my paddle to my paddle leash, time my approach to go in on the back of a wave then very smartly pull my kayak clear of the backward undertow and danger zone.  But not enough concentration, I could feel the stern lift, despite leaning on my back deck and strong back paddling it was not doing any good.  Instead I found myself standing on my footrest with my sea kayak (over 5 meters in length) sliding vertically into the trough in front and still only a green wave behind me.  I tucked up tightly for a loop and roll.  Suffice to say that none of us found the surf easy, but in no time at all we were getting changed into dry clothes.

Before driving away we were approached by a group fishing on the beach.  They asked if we had seen their short base 4 wheel drive Land Rover as we came in through the surf.  Apparently, just minutes earlier it had been submerged by the incoming tide, close to where we had landed.  This information did not completely surprise us, as we watched and heard the "whumph" of another thunderous wave.  The rate of wave movement was very high, fast and huge.

Our Sunday treat was a sedate paddle to Teal bay on Lake Hauroko.  Again we used our kayaks to enjoy and observe the wild life at close quarters.  Lunch was a lazy affair on the beach, looking across to the incredible grandeur of snow capped mountains, followed by a walk to explore the lake outlet, the Wairaurahiri River.  By paddling back along the lake edge I could easily spot the walking track, and Teal Bay Hut.  We arrived back at the boat ramp to be met by Sue's Mum and Auntie with a cup of tea and coffee sponge.  Monday, well, whether it was all the food, exercise or late night putting the world to rights but we agreed to take things easy.  We settled for a meander around Tuatapere looking at gardens and the Waiau River.  We were introduced to some of the locals.  And also the volunteers who are working to repair and restore the track, viaducts and developing the Hump Ridge Track in the Waitutu Forest.

Lake Hauroko with Mary Island in View, 
looking North to the head of the lake and
a track to Dusky Sound

On the way home we took a detour to look at the coastline of Te Waewae Bay and the vicious bar at the Waiau river mouth.  I was very humbled to think of the distances that Paul Caffyn had covered in his circumnavigation of the South Island in 1977-98.  Paul's major journey had started and ended here in Te Waewae bay.  The final day of his paddle he left Colac Bay at 7.15 in the morning arriving at the western end of Te Waewae, some 9 hours later without a break to go on shore.  He covered approximately 50 km, some of this against the tidal flow.  It was clear we were nowhere in his league.  The only way we could avoid entry through dumping surf again was to cross from Port Craig and land near Monkey Island, about a 30km crossing, (at 7-8km an hour, weather dependant) this would be close to 4 hours at sea. 

Lunch at Lake Hauroko

Exploring this section of Southland with sea kayaks was a truly magical experience.  While having fun we were also gaining in knowledge and skills, ready for the next time. 
Text Maggie Oakley
Photos Sue Abbott

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